Mark the Return of Courgette Season with a Cheesy, Peppery Pasta Sauce
Having made an excess of parmesan cream recently, the leftover portion was carried over from one column to the next. This led to a significant improvement in a pasta recipe featuring courgettes and almonds by incorporating two large tablespoons of soft cheese and parmesan, beaten into a soft, savory cream with a texture reminiscent of toothpaste, though not its taste.
This recipe also celebrates the return of courgettes to the northern hemisphere. Although courgettes are now available year-round, the true season is a special occasion as more courgettes appear in gardens of those fortunate enough to grow them, with their flowers blazing, on market stalls, shop shelves, and in vegetable boxes. Eventually, the abundance may lead gardeners to discuss gluts, cooks to consider chutney, and food magazines to offer numerous ideas. However, this is looking ahead.
A variety particularly anticipated is the pale green and white-speckled romanesco, which is ribbed like a Corinthian column and has a flower resembling a flame. Its dense, creamy flesh contains little water, making it ideal for boiling and sautéing; sometimes, romanesco requires additional water to maintain moisture. Another variety to watch for is the warm-yellow Gold Rush, prized for its buttery flesh with pumpkin-like sweet and savory notes. Being most familiar with romanesco, it is important to remember that Gold Rush and most smooth-skinned, dark, and pale green varieties generally hold more water. When cooking, it is essential to allow excess water to evaporate before proceeding to the next step.
Most soft cheeses can be used in this recipe, including cream cheese, mild goat’s cheese, robiola, or even double cream. The suggested ratio is three tablespoons of finely grated parmesan for every two tablespoons of cream cheese, but it is advisable to taste and adjust accordingly. A generous amount of black pepper is added, and lemon zest or a pinch of dried oregano or finely minced parsley can enhance the flavor. This recipe benefits from finishing the pasta cooking process in the sauce — the courgette and parmesan cream — by adding some starchy pasta cooking water to loosen the sauce, then allowing it to reduce and cling to the pasta. Additional grated parmesan can be added at the end to thicken the sauce further.
Orecchiette with Courgettes, Parmesan Cream and Almonds
Prep: 5 min
Cook: 15 min
Serves: 4
- Salt and black pepper
- 3 large courgettes
- 450g orecchiette, or other small caved-in pasta
- 2 tbsp cream cheese, or robiola or double cream
- 3 tbsp finely grated parmesan, plus extra to serve
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and bashed
- 5 tbsp olive oil
- 1 handful flaked almonds, lightly toasted
Bring a large pan of water to a boil for the pasta. Top and tail the courgettes, then finely dice them into approximately 3mm x 3mm pieces so they can nestle in the ears of the pasta later.
Add salt to the boiling water, stir, then add the pasta and set a timer according to the packet instructions.
In a small bowl, mix the cream cheese, parmesan, and black pepper to create a paste.
In a frying pan or wok large enough to hold the pasta later, gently fry the diced courgettes and the bashed garlic clove in olive oil over medium-low heat. The goal is to soften rather than brown the vegetables. If necessary, add some pasta cooking water to keep the mixture moist but not watery.
Turn off the heat while waiting for the pasta. When the pasta is about one minute from being done, return the courgette pan to the heat and stir in the cream cheese mixture.
Once the pasta is al dente, use a spider sieve or slotted spoon to transfer it directly into the courgette pan. Alternatively, drain the pasta and then add it to the pan. Toss vigorously to combine all elements. If the sauce appears watery, continue cooking and tossing until it thickens.
Divide the pasta among bowls, top each serving with a few flaked almonds, and serve with additional grated parmesan for those who desire it.
