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London's Oldest Restaurant Handed to National Trust After 228 Years

London's oldest restaurant, Rules, has been donated to the National Trust as an £11 million gift. The 228-year-old Covent Garden venue will continue operating while the charity preserves its building and historic collections.

By The UK Pulse Editorial Team··5 min read·How we work
The interior of Rules restaurant. It is a visibly old building with some wooden beams, low light, red and gold carpet, lamps, white table cloths. A painting of an older man in military uniform hangs on the wall to the left of the photo.

Rules, which opened in 1798 and has served everyone from Charles Dickens to Madonna across more than two centuries, has been transferred to the National Trust as a £11 million freehold gift. The Covent Garden establishment will remain open to diners while the charity takes stewardship of the building and its extensive historical collection.

The restaurant's owner, J-P Mayhew, donated the property along with visitor books, menus, photographs, caricatures, stained glass and signage to ensure the venue's preservation. According to reports on the donation, Mayhew sold the restaurant business itself to longtime general manager Ricky McMenemy in 2022, meaning the current transfer concerns the building and its contents rather than daily operations.

A balding man sits on a red sofa at a table with a white table cloth and wine glasses. He sits in front of a painting of ships.
Owner J-P Mayhew said the National Trust would protect the restaurant's future

Situated at 34-35 Maiden Lane, Rules has weathered wars, survived bombing during the Second World War, and resisted multiple redevelopment threats. The National Trust described it as an "outstanding example of living history" that has defied the odds to remain standing with its doors open and traditional dishes still served.

Why is this significant for the National Trust?

This marks a historic milestone for the charity. According to the National Trust's statement, this is its first property housing a historic restaurant that continues to operate commercially. While the organisation already cares for 39 historic pubs across the country, Rules represents a new category of heritage asset under its protection.

The Trust's national curator Lucy Porten indicated that involvement will be minimal in day-to-day running. The charity is exploring virtual visits and other remote ways for people to experience the space, ensuring broader public access to this cultural landmark.

The exterior of Rules, with yellow and red signage
Rules is located in Covent Garden

How will the arrangement work?

McMenemy will become a commercial tenant of the National Trust following the handover. Rent payments from the restaurant will be directed towards conserving the building and maintaining its collections. The arrangement allows Rules to continue trading while securing its long-term future under professional heritage management.

McMenemy, who has worked at the restaurant for 35 years, welcomed the donation. He stated:

"As an independent business, it gives us both the security and peace of mind that our home will be in very good hands and be protected and secure going forward."

According to the arrangement details, the restaurant is expected to continue operating while the Trust maintains the building and contents, permitting changes necessary to meet modern diners' needs.

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black and white image of the Rules sign

What famous figures have dined there?

Rules has hosted an extraordinary roster of notable guests across its 228-year history. Charles Dickens, Charlie Chaplin, David Bowie, Liza Minnelli and Harrison Ford have all dined within its walls. The restaurant became particularly famous for its discretion and ability to accommodate high-profile clientele.

King Edward VII famously used a corner on the second floor to meet his mistress, actress Lillie Langtry. The space featured specially created drapes to shield them from view, and a secret private door allowed discreet passage to an upstairs room. This tradition of confidentiality continues today, with staff carefully considering seating arrangements to separate rival film directors or opposing politicians.

black and white photo of exterior

Poet John Betjeman became so devoted to the restaurant that he delivered an impassioned defence of it when redevelopment threatened its existence. Writer Graham Greene also favoured the venue for birthday celebrations and featured it in his novel The End Of The Affair.

How did Rules survive previous threats?

The restaurant's survival has required resilience across generations. During the Second World War, it endured the Blitz while much of London faced destruction. More recently, in 1971, a Greater London Council proposal to convert the Strand into a dual carriageway posed an existential threat to the building. Betjeman led a campaign that successfully prevented demolition, allowing the restaurant to continue serving its clientele.

Hilary McGrady, director-general of the National Trust, acknowledged this history:

"This place is an outstanding piece of living history, with its corners where kings dined and writers and politicians plotted, and the traditions it kept alive through wars and upheaval. It has defied the odds to be standing here today, doors still open and treacle sponge still on the menu."

McGrady continued:

"Mr Mayhew's extraordinary generosity, and the care he has poured into Rules over many decades, mean this beloved place has a future measured not in years but generations."

A restaurant space with a central peaked glass ceiling, ornate chandelier and large leafy tropical plants lining the walls. The furniture is a mix of cane chairs and sofas in a light red brocade and the central floor area has a Persian style rug.
The restaurant was a favourite spot for poet John Betjeman

Mayhew explained his decision to transfer the property:

"There are few restaurants in the world that have endured the test of time like Rules. The trust will protect this place in a way that no-one else could, safeguarding its bricks and mortar, its famous interior and its invisible atmosphere, too. I am grateful to them for believing in this idea and for protecting this building and two centuries' worth of stories for people to enjoy forever."

What happens next?

The restaurant will continue operating under McMenemy's management as a commercial tenant of the National Trust. The charity will assume responsibility for maintaining the building fabric and its historic collections while permitting operational adaptations necessary for contemporary dining. The arrangement ensures that Rules remains accessible to the public as a functioning restaurant while benefiting from professional conservation stewardship.

Key Facts:

  • Rules opened in 1798 at 34-35 Maiden Lane in Covent Garden and is London's oldest continuously operating restaurant
  • The £11 million freehold gift includes the building, visitor books, menus, photographs, caricatures, stained glass and signage
  • This is the National Trust's first property housing a historic restaurant that remains open and operating commercially
  • Ricky McMenemy, who has managed the restaurant for 35 years, will continue as commercial tenant under the new arrangement
  • The restaurant survived the Second World War Blitz and a 1971 redevelopment threat led by poet John Betjeman's campaign

This article was sourced from bbc

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