Simpson’s-in-the-Strand: A Quintessential British Dining Experience
The British may not possess the most sophisticated palates, but their culinary preferences remain endearing in their simplicity and tradition.
As we await the arrival of the beef rib trolley in the expansive Grand Divan dining room at Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, our conversation turns to how best to capture the restaurant’s unabashedly quaint character.
“It’s all a bit Hogwarts, isn’t it?”I remark to my friend Hugh.
Hugh, a frequent visitor having dined here four times already, acknowledges Simpson’s as a convenient and refined dining option just a short walk from Covent Garden. The establishment also features a charming, old-fashioned cocktail bar upstairs and a separate venue offering a more European-style menu. However, our focus remains on the Grand Divan.
“It’s all very Samuel Pepys’ London,”Hugh observes.
“Or very ‘I’m a member of the British establishment meeting my former Eton fencing team for claret and rabbit with grain mustard’,”I add, as the dining hall—operating since 1828 and once frequented by Charles Dickens—quickly fills on this Sunday lunchtime.
The restaurant boasts exceptional soundproofing, allowing clear conversation despite the bustling atmosphere typical of a lively Saturday night. This is a Simpson’s hallmark, where such details enhance the dining experience. Unlike some of King’s newer ventures that rely on elaborate backstories, the Grand Divan lets its menu narrate the story, presenting a vibrant selection of traditional British dishes: bubble and squeak, bacon chop, dressed Portland crab, Gentleman’s Relish on toast, among others.
The menu also highlights the “pies and puddings of the day,” rotating offerings such as Monday’s beef and ale pie, Wednesday’s ox cheek pie, and Thursday’s steak and kidney pudding. Despite global uncertainties, patrons can rely on a Friday Simpson’s fish pie served with seasonal vegetables, followed by a classic spotted dick with custard for dessert. This iconic British pudding, a moist suet cake studded with currants, evokes nostalgia. I reflect on its resemblance to dried fruit and the memories it conjures of 1970s Sundays when it came canned and was paired with slightly off Nestlé Tip Top margarine—then, arguably, the highlight of the day.
These recollections and many others surfaced during our lunch at Simpson’s, where the ambiance resembles an ancient Oxbridge dining hall, complete with dark wood paneling, chandeliers, and servers in black waistcoats maneuvering trolleys laden with roast rib. The beef itself is a standout, served rare with fiery horseradish from a communal bowl, accompanied by Yorkshire pudding, gravy, and a tureen of roast potatoes and root vegetables. The portions ensure no guest leaves hungry.
Simpson’s demonstrates that while British tastes may lack refinement, they possess a charming earnestness. For instance, one might enjoy a glass of sweet house hock alongside boiled ham with parsley sauce, or explore the British cheese trolley, which features chutney and fruit bread.
The quality of the food exceeded my expectations: consistently adequate, occasionally delightful. The Grand Divan prawn cocktail was both visually appealing and generous, featuring three large shelled prawns alongside numerous smaller ones dressed in a sweet Marie Rose sauce. While not groundbreaking, it was well presented.
I particularly appreciated the roast loin of cod served with wilted greens and lobster bisque sauce—a dish that was excellent, with flaky fish and a rich, glossy sauce. At £16.75, the bubble and squeak seemed expensive for what amounted to a modest portion of fried mashed potatoes topped with an egg, but it was enjoyable nonetheless.
The dessert—a miniature croquembouche tower for two—was somewhat disappointing, featuring excessive spun sugar and insufficient cream. The small, dry, and distinctly British version would likely perplex a French connoisseur.
“Qu’est-ce que c’est que ça?”they might ask.
Nonetheless, Simpson’s possesses qualities I greatly admire: its historical character, formality, dignity, reliability, and even on a casual Sunday, a palpable sense of occasion. It is a venue I will return to when seeking nourishment, comfort, and attentive service. Such dependability is among the highest compliments a restaurant can receive.
Located at 100 Strand, London WC2, Simpson’s-in-the-Strand can be reached at 020-7836 9112. It operates all week, serving lunch from 11:30am to 3pm (until 5pm on Sundays) and dinner from 5pm to 11:30pm (until 10:30pm on Sundays). Prices start at approximately £55 per person à la carte, excluding drinks and service.
