Introduction to Bourride
Fish stew in the south of France does not necessarily mean a complex bouillabaisse; bourride is a simpler and equally delightful option for a summer evening.
Although bouillabaisse is beloved, the spiny Mediterranean rockfish called rascasse, essential to Marseille’s signature dish, is rarely found outside its native region. Bourride, another fish stew from southern France, offers a more straightforward recipe that is easier to replicate elsewhere. Enriched with garlicky aïoli, it is an excellent choice for a summer meal and can be prepared ahead up to the end of step 7.
Preparation Details
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 1 hour 10 minutes
Serves: 2 generously
Ingredients for the aïoli
- 1 garlic clove
- 1 pinch coarse salt
- 1 egg yolk
- 75ml light olive oil or neutral oil
- 30ml extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 tsp lemon juice, or to taste
- Salt and white pepper, to taste
Ingredients for the stew
- 6 sustainably sourced raw shell-on prawns (optional)
- 2 small leeks
- 1 fennel bulb
- 2 tbsp oil
- 3 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
- 1 long strip orange peel, cut into slivers
- ½ tsp fennel seeds
- 1 pinch saffron threads
- Salt and pepper
- 75ml dry white wine
- 500ml fish stock (or use fish and shellfish carcasses to make your own: see step 4)
- 400g sustainably sourced firm-fleshed white fish – for example, hake, gurnard, monkfish, pollock (preferably a mix), all cut into bite-size pieces
- Bread, croutons, or boiled new potatoes, to serve
1 A Note on the Fish
Bourride can be prepared with any fish firm enough to retain its shape. The recipe simply specifies any "filleted white-fleshed fish." A combination of hake and gurnard is recommended, but cod, mullet, haddock, monkfish, bream, and others are also suitable. When purchasing, ask your fishmonger to keep the carcasses if they are filleting the fish for you or have any spare.
2 Shellfish or No Shellfish?
While some assert that shellfish is never used in bourride, Caroline Rimbert Craig includes squid or prawns, and Alex Jackson adds mussels in his book. Many find shell-on prawns easier to obtain than fresh fish, so they are included here to enrich a ready-made stock. However, those preferring a purist approach may omit them.
3 Fry the Vegetables and Prawn Shells
If using prawns, shell them but keep the shells. Roughly chop one leek and half the fennel, then soften them in oil in a large saucepan.
Stir in the garlic, most of the orange peel, fennel seeds, and saffron. Season generously and fry for two minutes. Add the prawn shells if using, increase the heat, and sauté until they turn a vivid pink.
4 Deglaze and Add the Stock
Add the white wine and allow it to almost evaporate. Then pour in the stock or, if using fish carcasses, add them now and cover with cold water instead.
Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat and let it gently bubble for 20 minutes (or 30 minutes if making stock from scratch).
Strain the broth into a large jug; you should have about 400ml. Top up with water if necessary. Discard the carcasses and aromatics.
5 Make the Aïoli
Crush the garlic with salt. To keep the traditional method, beat this mixture into the egg yolk, then gradually whisk in the oils a little at a time until thick and emulsified. Using a mix of oils provides a balanced flavor, but one type of oil can be used if preferred. Add lemon juice and season to taste.
6 Or Blitz the Garlic and Egg …
Alternatively, if you have a hand blender and a cylindrical container slightly larger than the blender head, place the crushed garlic and salt, egg yolk, and lemon juice in the container with a tablespoon of cold water. Pour 75ml oil on top and let it settle for a minute so the oil rises.
7 … and Finish with a Hand Blender
Place the blender head on the base of the container and blend on high speed until a thick emulsion forms and rises. Slowly tilt the container to incorporate the rest of the oil into the emulsion. Whisk in the extra-virgin olive oil by hand (blending it can cause bitterness) and season to taste.
8 Now Back to the Stew
Return the strained broth to the cleaned pan and bring to a simmer. Cook each type of fish and seafood separately by carefully adding it to the hot broth. Cover the pan, reduce the heat, and cook until just done.
Transfer the cooked seafood to a plate or shallow bowl and repeat with the remaining fish. Once all fish is cooked, divide it between warmed serving bowls. Finely slice the remaining leek and fennel, poach them in the broth similarly, and add to the bowls once soft.
9 Finishing Touches
Remove the broth from heat. Place three tablespoons of the aïoli in a heatproof bowl and gradually whisk in a ladleful of warm broth to loosen it. Slowly whisk this mixture back into the broth pot, then heat very gently just to warm through.
Divide the broth among the serving bowls, scatter over the remaining orange peel, and serve with the aïoli alongside bread, croutons, or boiled potatoes.
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