Introduction to Courgettes
Courgettes are a versatile and often underrated vegetable, especially popular in early summer. Their appeal and adaptability mean they are frequently present in my kitchen. Despite this, I believe courgettes do not always receive the full recognition they deserve in the UK, even though we cultivate some excellent varieties locally. I incorporate courgettes in a wide range of dishes, from raw salads—such as very thinly sliced courgettes tossed with salt and lemon—to slow-cooked preparations, crisp frying, or lightly charring them on a barbecue, which enhances their natural sweetness. The flowers of the courgette plant are particularly delightful when stuffed with cheese or meat and then deep-fried. Additionally, courgettes can be baked into moist cakes, showcasing their versatility. It is difficult to find a more adaptable vegetable than the courgette.
Courgette Fritters with Cheese, Herbs, and Brown-Butter Crème Fraîche
Prep: 10 min | Salt: 10 min | Cook: 25 min | Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 3 medium courgettes (about 600g), trimmed and grated
- Sea salt and black pepper
- 120g crumbly cow or sheep’s cheese, drained and crumbled
- 2 spring onions, trimmed and finely sliced
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and grated
- Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
- 1 large handful mixed picked herbs – dill, mint, and parsley
- 2 eggs
- 120g plain flour
- 1 tsp baking powder
- Olive oil, for frying
For the brown-butter crème fraîche:
- 60g butter
- Juice of ½ lemon
- 150g crème fraîche
Begin by placing the grated courgettes in a sieve, lightly salting them, and allowing them to steep for 10 minutes. After this, squeeze out as much liquid as possible from the salted courgettes. Combine them in a bowl with the cheese, spring onions, garlic, lemon zest, half of the herbs, and a generous amount of black pepper. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs, then beat in the flour and baking powder to create a thick batter. Fold this batter into the courgette mixture until thoroughly combined.
To prepare the dip, melt the butter in a frying pan over medium heat and cook for about five minutes until it develops a nutty aroma. Stir in the lemon juice, remove from heat, and allow to cool. Whisk the cooled brown butter into the crème fraîche and season to taste.
For cooking the fritters, heat a shallow layer of olive oil in a wide pan. Fry spoonfuls of the courgette batter for a couple of minutes on each side until they are crisp and golden. Work in batches if necessary. Remove the cooked fritters with a slotted spoon, season them while hot, and keep warm in a low oven as you cook the remaining fritters.
After frying the fritters, toss any remaining herbs in the hot oil left in the pan to fry and crisp them up, then drain.
Serve the fritters scattered with the fried herbs alongside the brown-butter crème fraîche for dipping. A drizzle of good olive oil can also be added for extra flavor.
Slow-Cooked Courgettes with Preserved Lemon and Ricotta on Toast
Ingredients:
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- 5 medium courgettes (about 850g), trimmed and thinly sliced
- 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
- 1 small preserved lemon, flesh removed and discarded, rind finely chopped
- Finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lemon
- 1 pinch chilli flakes, or to taste
- 1 handful fresh mint leaves
- Sea salt and black pepper
- 4 thick slices sourdough
- 150g ricotta
Place a large, wide pan over medium-low heat and add a splash of good olive oil. Stir in the sliced courgettes and garlic. Reduce the heat, cover the pan, and allow the courgettes to collapse gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. The goal is for the courgettes to become almost jammy with minimal liquid remaining in the pan.
Next, stir in the chopped preserved lemon rind, lemon zest, chilli flakes, and half of the mint leaves. Season the mixture with sea salt and black pepper, then remove the pan from the heat.
Toast the sourdough slices. While the bread is toasting, mix salt, pepper, and a drizzle of olive oil into the ricotta to achieve a spoonable consistency. If the ricotta seems too firm, loosen it with a little more olive oil or warm water.
Spread each slice of toast generously with the ricotta, spoon the warm courgettes on top, and finish with torn mint leaves and an additional drizzle of olive oil.
Ben Tish is a food writer and chef/director of a group of pubs in London.
