Introduction
It will not earn acclaim from Japanese purists, but Mitsu offers many admirable qualities. Before even reaching for my chopsticks, I anticipated it would be a significant improvement over its predecessor, Nobu Shoreditch, as it occupies the same space beneath the Aethos hotel, a Swiss-owned lifestyle hospitality brand in east London.
Nobu was enormous, dimly lit to the point of near darkness, prohibitively expensive, and notoriously difficult to book despite having approximately 797 seats. It was also one of the most talked-about restaurants of the past 25 years. Nobu Shoreditch symbolized the fading hopes of the 1990s Young British Artists (YBA) crowd and the early 2000s electroclash scene.
Transformation of the Space
That was then; now, in 2026, the Aethos team has skillfully brightened and lightened the atmosphere, creating a cozy environment with a twinkling central bar. The restaurant features an open kitchen, spacious booths, and a charming Japanese garden. Mitsu describes itself as an izakaya, a term European restaurateurs often use to indicate Japanese-influenced food that is relaxed and conducive to enjoying sake.
Menu and Culinary Offerings
While the establishment takes its sushi and sashimi seriously, offering quality unagi, hamachi, chutoro, and more, it also presents many flavorful small dishes. These include very good chicken tsukune (meatball) skewers served with sweet tare sauce, and two Shoreditch staples: pork belly with mustard and wagyu with tonkatsu sauce, both prepared in rich, milky styles. From the robata grill, options include a porterhouse steak with sansho pepper sauce and a pork tomahawk with kanzuri miso.
Chef and Culinary Direction
The kitchen is led by Aaj Fernando, formerly of La Bodega Negra, a highly sought-after Soho restaurant in 2012 that was also difficult to book. Although La Bodega Negra still operates, it no longer commands the same attention, and Fernando has since relocated east to serve a new generation of underground, creative diners.
Dining Experience
I chose a green tea, as my days of lively nights in this area are behind me. Had I been inclined, I might have ordered a whisky highball or some of the £4-per-glass sake available at a nearby London Bridge establishment. I skipped the miso soup, edamame, and tsukemono (house pickled vegetables) and went straight to the kozara (small plates), which include chicken and squid dishes alongside pork gyoza and seafood dumplings. I ordered hamachi (yellowtail), served in a pool of katsu ponzu and accented with a silky, earthy cauliflower puree that was perfectly balanced rather than overpowering.
The presentation of the wagyu sando was somewhat rustic, cut into four chunky sections reminiscent of a toddler’s post-lunch snack. The steak was thick yet tender, and the shokupan bread was sweet, rich, and irresistibly delicious—almost like madeira cake. Japanese-style sandos often carry a bittersweet quality, as each delightful bite brings you closer to the end of the meal.
Reception and Audience
Mitsu may not satisfy Japanese purists, who might disapprove of dishes like grilled beef fillet with garlic and soy butter or soy-glazed salmon skewers. However, they can take comfort in the fact that the menu does not include chips. Purists may also be unimpressed by the generous portion of matcha tiramisu served tableside in a visually appealing manner, which aligns with contemporary dining trends in the area.
Nevertheless, Mitsu is a decidedly fun and delicious venue to keep in mind. The chutoro sashimi was outstanding—fresh, fatty, supple, and highly enjoyable. Special mention is due for the akami temaki, delicate and crisp nori boats filled with rice and lush red tuna, as well as the juicy chicken meatballs, which alone justify a visit.
Balancing Act and Atmosphere
There is a clear sense that Mitsu is carefully balancing its appeal to Shoreditch’s new content-creating crowd, who favor items like sandos and generously portioned desserts, with an older, affluent clientele seeking authentic sashimi and sake. While not revolutionary, the restaurant offers a large, warm space staffed by attentive employees. I would gladly return for a solo lunch. Business groups will appreciate the larger booths, while friends and couples can enjoy conversations thanks to excellent soundproofing. The menu encourages indulgence rather than restrained, minimalist eating.
So, farewell Nobu—I will not miss your black cod or your lack of lighting. I prefer Mitsu.
Practical Information
Address: 10-50 Willow Street, London EC2. Phone: 0287 114 0040. Open daily with lunch from noon to 4pm and dinner from 5pm to midnight (extended to 1am Thursday through Saturday). Prices start at about £80 per person à la carte, with set menus at £85 and £105, excluding drinks and service.
