Introduction to Trillium
I am somewhat enamored with this unusual, daring, and playful restaurant. Trillium, the newest Birmingham establishment by Michelin-starred chef Glynn Purnell, is decidedly not a solemn, quiet venue where classical music plays softly while diners eat tiny, meticulously plated courses. Instead, it is quite the opposite. Despite Purnell’s reputation across the Midlands for refined, special-occasion Michelin-starred dining through ventures like Purnell’s and The Asquith, Trillium offers a livelier atmosphere. On a recent Saturday night, the restaurant’s glass-fronted, multicolored, birdcage-inspired design was filled with loud conversation, booming music, and a steady stream of plates featuring dishes such as battered potato scallops served with soured cream.
A New Approach to Michelin-Starred Dining
Trillium represents a genuine effort by a Michelin-starred chef to reinterpret elements of fine dining into a more vibrant yet still upscale setting. While other chefs have attempted similar concepts (see examples like The Palomar and The Ledbury), Purnell has, remarkably, succeeded. There is an unmistakable atmosphere of guests genuinely enjoying themselves. Naturally, diners can choose to enhance dishes, such as adding caviar to the potato scallop for an additional £25. However, as I quickly discovered, the potato scallop itself is designed to feel indulgently luxurious without extras.
Ambiance and Service
Trillium features an open kitchen, lively décor, and cheerful, attentive, informal service. While it may not appeal to everyone, it is notably welcoming. Sommeliers are available for those interested in detailed discussions about wines like Amfòra orange wine by the glass, including information about the grape variety, vineyard, and terroir. At the same time, staff are equally comfortable serving an orange Aperol spritz alongside a round of bruschetta topped with seaweed jam and anchovy. The initial moments at Trillium are a sensory overload: uneven tables, flaming pans, and a menu featuring intriguing descriptions such as “beef carpaccio with Oxo cube” and “XXL gougère.”
First Impressions and Signature Dishes
The first indication that this was a special dining experience came with the arrival of soft, sea salt-topped, fluffy white milk loaf buns accompanied by a small dish of a mysterious oily condiment for dipping. The contents of this dish were initially unclear: fatty, seasoned with specks of red, and reminiscent of something one might find in the washing-up after a Sunday lunch. Dipping the salty bread into this mixture revealed a flavor revelation—warm, runny chicken fat infused with the unmistakable sharpness of malt vinegar, distinct from balsamic, sherry vinegar, or non-brewed condiment.
Next came the XXL gougère. In less skilled hands, this would be a pale, fragile choux pastry with a small amount of cheese. At Trillium, however, it is a substantial creation befitting its name: voluptuous, filled with creamy Montgomery cheddar, and topped with a thick slice of gruyère dusted with paprika. From this point forward, all other small, cold, stale gougères currently served in the UK will seem like cruel jokes in comparison.
Continued Culinary Excellence
The experience continued to impress, and I found myself increasingly fond of this eccentric, bold, and playful restaurant. The food is consistently excellent, indulgent, imaginative, and surprisingly generous in portion size. For example, the highly appealing “coddled duck egg” consists of not one but two buttery, perfectly seasoned, runny-yolked eggs atop thick slices of sourdough spread with smoked almond paste and finished with truffle. Although the almond paste is savory, it imparts a subtle marzipan-like quality, resulting in a reinterpretation of eggs benedict for those who find hollandaise insufficiently rich.
Menu Highlights
These eggs appear on the “small plates” section of the menu, though it is difficult to imagine anyone considering them small. Another “small” plate is a beef carpaccio platter featuring pickled shimeji mushrooms, bresaola, and the aforementioned Oxo cube made from shredded beef cheek. Among the larger plates, vegetarian diners will appreciate the vadouvan-spiced heritage carrots served with lentils, coconut, and yogurt. A standout seafood dish is the perfectly cooked Cornish skate accompanied by butter beans and a rich, buttery, sunset-yellow espelette sauce that has lingered in my thoughts long after the meal.
Dessert and Final Thoughts
For dessert, I chose a warm Manjari chocolate mousse, which may not have been the strongest choice, but at that point, we were seeking something lighter. Next time, I plan to try the caramel custard tart paired with the ice cream of the day. Many chefs have attempted to create Michelin-quality food without formal ceremony, but Trillium is the closest I have found to achieving this balance. Diners can expect to eat well, feel comfortable resting an elbow on the table, order house wine, and most importantly, have fun.
Practical Information
Trillium is located at 1 Snow Hill Queensway, Birmingham B4. Reservations can be made via email at restaurant@trilliumrestaurant.co.uk, as the restaurant does not have a phone line. It is open Wednesday through Friday for lunch from noon to 2:30 pm and dinner from 6 to 9 pm, and on Saturdays from noon to 9 pm. Prices start at approximately £75 per person à la carte, excluding drinks and service.
